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Discussion Starter #1
New guy here. First off, awesome site and forums.
Need help. Wondering if anyone can chime in. I have a 2018 Raptor with 22K miles. In the last 800 or so I'm hearing a knocking from the engine compartment. Usually most evident at idle or slow roll in cement traffic.

Spoke with a service tech at Ford and not sure I buy his response. Said it has to do with the high performance lifters on the valves.

Has anyone else been experiencing this and have any ideas what it's all about. Help / input is appreciated.
 

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New guy here. First off, awesome site and forums.
Need help. Wondering if anyone can chime in. I have a 2018 Raptor with 22K miles. In the last 800 or so I'm hearing a knocking from the engine compartment. Usually most evident at idle or slow roll in cement traffic.

Spoke with a service tech at Ford and not sure I buy his response. Said it has to do with the high performance lifters on the valves.

Has anyone else been experiencing this and have any ideas what it's all about. Help / input is appreciated.
That's not normal !
You still Have your 3/36 Bumper to Bumper warranty .....
Dude it's Ford's problem ,take it in .. service tech response is BULLSHIT !
 
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K9 Pack,
I agree with Raptor2; Ford needs to know about this. I would check my oil level and be sure there's nothing I'd done to cause it but it should be looked at by them since it is still under warranty. There's a few things you can do to locate the noise but it depends upon how comfortable you are around a running motor.

-I guess I should caveat this by saying if this while accelerating, driving, or while in motion you should determine it isn't the brand of gasoline you are using. Some of the guys here suggest you should use high octane gas instead of regular. I use regular in my 2014 6.2 and don't have any trouble and I try to get it from a single source if I can. I don't switch my source unless I'm on the road for a long distance ride.

-Be sure your oil level is where it is supposed to be. I like to keep mine in the cross-hatches on the dipstick. Refer to your owner's manual for guidance. If there are metal flakes on the dipstick the damage is done and you'll need to show it to Ford. If the noise goes away shortly after warm-up that's fairly normal but if it continues throughout your drive it could be major.

-Be sure you are using a quality oil. You have to look hard to find junk oil so as long as you are buying a quality name detergent oil you should be okay. I like to use a synthetic 5W-20. I noticed you are in Arizona; I'm in the Prescott area so we see temperature swings of 30 to 50 degrees this time of year. If you are higher up or lower I would think the same 5W-20 will work for you but it should list what you need in the manual; I think it is on the oil filler cap as well but can't speak to a 2018.

-You'll need a metal rod about 18" to 24" long. Get the motor running and let it warm up or do it after you return from somewhere. By standing in front of the vehicle you should be able to determine which side the noise is coming from or if it is high or low on the motor. Being very careful of rotating parts like the fan blade and pulleys touch the metal rod to the valve covers, cylinder heads, block, etc. to determine the source. There are videos online about how to do this so I'll refer you to them. Type "find engine knock" in your browser and you'll get lots of materiel in return. Generally, tick sounds are from the valve area while knocking is the lower end. If you can determine the source then you can let the service manager listen to it too.

I'll caution you to get it looked at soon as the longer you drive it the worse and more expensive it will get if you are found at fault for anything. I think I'd skip the techs and go so the service manager to see if you don't get different results. I would guess you might hear some noises during the break-in period but with 22K plus on it I'm thinking everything should be settled in and working properly.

A lot of things to cover but this should get you a fair ways into figuring it out.

Good luck with this,
LZinAZ
 

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Dont believe anything about the "high" performance lifters, that's someone who doesnt know what he is talking about.

Make sure you only put in premium it is required on a 3.5L

The 3.5L is also pfi and di(direct injectors are very noisy) but they shouldn't be firing at idle.

Otherwise you will need to listen around to pinpoint it

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Dont believe anything about the "high" performance lifters, that's someone who doesnt know what he is talking about.

Make sure you only put in premium it is required on a 3.5L

The 3.5L is also pfi and di(direct injectors are very noisy) but they shouldn't be firing at idle.

Otherwise you will need to listen around to pinpoint it

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
Appreciate the input. That was another thing the service tech said he thought it may be the injectors. I'm bringing it in under the warranty.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
K9 Pack,
I agree with Raptor2; Ford needs to know about this. I would check my oil level and be sure there's nothing I'd done to cause it but it should be looked at by them since it is still under warranty. There's a few things you can do to locate the noise but it depends upon how comfortable you are around a running motor.

-I guess I should caveat this by saying if this while accelerating, driving, or while in motion you should determine it isn't the brand of gasoline you are using. Some of the guys here suggest you should use high octane gas instead of regular. I use regular in my 2014 6.2 and don't have any trouble and I try to get it from a single source if I can. I don't switch my source unless I'm on the road for a long distance ride.

-Be sure your oil level is where it is supposed to be. I like to keep mine in the cross-hatches on the dipstick. Refer to your owner's manual for guidance. If there are metal flakes on the dipstick the damage is done and you'll need to show it to Ford. If the noise goes away shortly after warm-up that's fairly normal but if it continues throughout your drive it could be major.

-Be sure you are using a quality oil. You have to look hard to find junk oil so as long as you are buying a quality name detergent oil you should be okay. I like to use a synthetic 5W-20. I noticed you are in Arizona; I'm in the Prescott area so we see temperature swings of 30 to 50 degrees this time of year. If you are higher up or lower I would think the same 5W-20 will work for you but it should list what you need in the manual; I think it is on the oil filler cap as well but can't speak to a 2018.

-You'll need a metal rod about 18" to 24" long. Get the motor running and let it warm up or do it after you return from somewhere. By standing in front of the vehicle you should be able to determine which side the noise is coming from or if it is high or low on the motor. Being very careful of rotating parts like the fan blade and pulleys touch the metal rod to the valve covers, cylinder heads, block, etc. to determine the source. There are videos online about how to do this so I'll refer you to them. Type "find engine knock" in your browser and you'll get lots of materiel in return. Generally, tick sounds are from the valve area while knocking is the lower end. If you can determine the source then you can let the service manager listen to it too.

I'll caution you to get it looked at soon as the longer you drive it the worse and more expensive it will get if you are found at fault for anything. I think I'd skip the techs and go so the service manager to see if you don't get different results. I would guess you might hear some noises during the break-in period but with 22K plus on it I'm thinking everything should be settled in and working properly.

A lot of things to cover but this should get you a fair ways into figuring it out.

Good luck with this,
LZinAZ
So I take it you've done something like this before with the sound rod?! The input is amazing and detailed, Thank You!!!
I am bringing it in after the new year under the warranty. Also, I agree on the oil. I only use the synthetic and it's serviced at the dealership. Gas is always from Chevron. Happy Holidays and New Years!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Dont believe anything about the "high" performance lifters, that's someone who doesnt know what he is talking about.

Make sure you only put in premium it is required on a 3.5L

The 3.5L is also pfi and di(direct injectors are very noisy) but they shouldn't be firing at idle.

Otherwise you will need to listen around to pinpoint it

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
Thanks for the insight. It's going in after the holidays.
 

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So I take it you've done something like this before with the sound rod?! The input is amazing and detailed, Thank You!!!
I am bringing it in after the new year under the warranty. Also, I agree on the oil. I only use the synthetic and it's serviced at the dealership. Gas is always from Chevron. Happy Holidays and New Years!
K9 Pack,
You are correct in surmising I've done this before. Earlier in life I was an ASE certified technician (mechanic). It wasn't required to have a stethoscope in the toolbox but you couldn't find "tricky" sounds without one. I've used metal bars/rods, long screwdrivers, etc. to find the sound(s).

One hates to cast doubt on another tech's guess without having seen the truck but I have doubts about the injectors making a noise so loud you can hear them outside the vehicle. By placing a metal bar on the fuel rail or the injectors you should hear a little clicking but very faint.

No matter since you are taking it in. Really curious to read what is found after a thorough inspection. Be sure to let us know in the event it comes up for others.

Best,
LZinAZ
 

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You know it could very well be a cam phaser issue, go online and look for a video of ford cam phaser knock and see if it sounds similar. I would assume it would set a code, but I know better from other fords that I have owned

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Discussion Starter #12
Does the sound go away if you shift into neutral or park? So only hear when in drive or reverse?
No, in park or not in park at idle the sound persists. May be purchasing a new 2019. If I don’t I’ll post hear what the findings were when I bring it in for service under the engine knocking noise.
 

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I’ve experienced 18 raptor only making noise at idle in drive or reverse. Instantly goes away when shift to park or neutral. Must be different since yours makes sound so matter in gear or not.


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Well I have had the same issue for a while. My dealership also said its normal. I said no I'm a motorhead and this noise is not normal. I believe I have prematurely stretched my timing chain. The noise is coming from the slapping of the chain. I also believe my timing has been out of whack for over a year. My cam phasers are also jacked up. Long story short SVT got involved and said I'm totally correct. All of our engines are going to FAIL! As we speak the dealership is repairing it now. New Cam Phasers/Upper Valve train work and of course a new timing chain and guide. My 2018 Raptor has 37,800 miles on it. I am out of the standard warrenty. I was soooooo glad I bought the extended warrenty or I would be paying out of pocket. FYI to all of you whom have a V6 ecoboost. Once I get it back I will post the Repair order for all to see. Not happy about this.
 

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Well I have had the same issue for a while. My dealership also said its normal. I said no I'm a motorhead and this noise is not normal. I believe I have prematurely stretched my timing chain. The noise is coming from the slapping of the chain. I also believe my timing has been out of whack for over a year. My cam phasers are also jacked up. Long story short SVT got involved and said I'm totally correct. All of our engines are going to FAIL! As we speak the dealership is repairing it now. New Cam Phasers/Upper Valve train work and of course a new timing chain and guide. My 2018 Raptor has 37,800 miles on it. I am out of the standard warrenty. I was soooooo glad I bought the extended warrenty or I would be paying out of pocket. FYI to all of you whom have a V6 ecoboost. Once I get it back I will post the Repair order for all to see. Not happy about this.
Thanks for the update. I also had the extended warranty and haven't brought it in yet. Just last week I got a huge blow of blue smoke out the rear during acceleration. The knocking is getting worse and worse. I'm almost just waiting to see what the failure point will be since I have the extended 5yr/100000. I have a 2019 coming in May which I'll also get the extended warranty on. Did SVT indicate if any changes went into effect with the 2019's or late 2018's?
 

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No they would only relay info to the Ford mechanic and service advisor. No info if they strengthened the components. The weak link in this engine is the timing chain. Once it wears out the plastic guides and shavings plug up the oil pick up the lack of oil flow/circulation will cause engine failure. My truck was going 70 on the freeway and all of the sudden the engine power stopped and the oil pressure gauge turned bright red and dropped to 0. Apparently my eco boost has eco busted. Warranty will be extended as long as I own this truck.
 

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I may also be a victim. Appointment on 4/23 (soonest available without driving 200 miles to dealership where purchased). Having owned a 2010 and a 2014 6.2L, this turn of events on my 2018 with only 28k easy miles is extremely disappointing.

Will report back here once the diagnosis comes in. My gut is telling me stretched timing chain with all the associated failures.
 

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Yes. Sorry to hear this but it’s going to eventually happen to everybody. Unfortunately ford refuses to recall our vehicles. It’s up to the individual to know there is a major engine issue. Thank god im engine savvy and knew that this wasn’t a normal noise. In Las Vegas currently there are 2 raptors at my dealership getting it repaired and 4 across town getting repaired. That’s 6 raptors at once. Mine is going to be ready around 6 tonight if it all went well. They tore my entire engine apart. Soooo sad. I will post my repair order. Sorry for the bad news guys. I needed to let all of you know the truth about what is going on with the flagship engine ford built.
 

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Quick update. I will post my repair order. In a hurry right now so here is the outcome. The repair was completed and the truck drives like new again. The repair consisted of the timing chain and phasers. 2 cams and sprockets and a number of replaced bolts. I took exactly 5 days and it runs great. I suggest everyone has this checked and fixed ASAP. This is one of the most important parts in the engine. No more noises and she is running and idling smooth as can be.
 

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Still waiting for repairs. Been at dealership since 4/23. Timing chain and phasers. Only thing I can think of to do differently is doubling up on oil changes, maybe go 5W40 as some folks are recommending.
 
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