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6.2 start up

I have 45,543.8 and I have not had any of the issues on start up, I made sure to check it today on the first start and it was fine. Even when I change engine oil it really does not make any top end noise until the engine picks up the new oil, I do change mine at 3-4K I know that's early but oil is cheap in the long run I use the Mobil M1-210 High Efficient filter and Mobile 15W-50W full synthetic oil about 80 bucks to change it but the trucks a lot of money. I use regular gas Exxon or QT seems to do ok, all has ethanol no way around that crap around here any way, hate to here you guys having issues with the truck maybe I got lucky with my 6.2.
 

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I know I'm replying to an old thread, but this post seems to have more info on this problem than other posts. I also don't have a Raptor, but rather a 2012 F-250 with the same 6.2L engine (albeit a bit detuned to 385bhp).

That being said, mine makes a short rattle or sharp tick for a few seconds as soon as it starts. Watch the oil pressure gauge, as soon as it pegs up to normal the noise goes away. To complicate diagnosis, the engine doesn't do it all the time! Generally doesn't seem to do it when totally cold - but that could be the engine startup roar muffles it. It might do it after it sits for an hour, and it might not do it for a week. Then again, it might do it to me two or three times in one day. Has done it since day 1 - now has almost 4k miles on it. Very frustrating, dealer not helpful. So far, one oil change done at the dealer and no improvement.

Any resolution on this? Its embarrassing how crappy it sounds when it does it.
 

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the reason it seems random is it is 1 or 2 hydraulic lash adjusters bleeding down. Depending on what postion the crank and cams stop when you turn the engine off. If it happens to be pushing a valve open when the engine stops rotating and that is the weak lash adjuster it will bleed the oil out, and the next time you start it , it ticks till it pumps up with oil again. i agree very frustrating. The only thing i found to improve this is when you get to where your going and park let the truck idle for about a 1-2 min. before shutting it off. My theory is it allows the oil to cool some and thicken up a bit ,and the cam adjusters move to a nuetral postion. Before i started doing this i was always running late for work and hauling AZZ pulling in and parking, run inside and clock in. Every time i would do that it would tick real bad when leaving work. On days i wasnt late i would sit in parking lot for 5 min or so idleng and listening to radio, noticed it wouldnt tick when leaving work. Running it hard heats and thins the oil. my truck will only do it once every couple of weeks now. i have 48,000 miles and whipple. on another note i took a trip to vegas ran it hard up and back about 1000 mile round trip. It didn't tick for 2 weeks. This was before i started letting it idle for a few min every time i park. Dont know why taking a long trip would make a diffrence? Just something i noticed . Report back on your findings if this works for you.
 

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Thanks for the info...this is the best explanation I've heard so far. I tried letting it idle for about 30 seconds before shutting it off...and the next startup 1.5 hours later it rattled. Maybe I need to wait longer. I'll report how it goes.

Are you saying though, that only 'some' of the lash adjusters are weak? Because almost inevitably some valves will be pushed open every time the engine is shut off, so it would seem if they were all a weak design, than it would rattle every time.

It also seems to only make the noise from the driver's side of the engine. Could just be me hearing it most there, though, because I sit on that side.

If thickening the oil helps, would running a thicker oil in the summer help? Also, you might think in the winter (at least here in the north east where it gets cold) this problem would be diminished.

Finally, if I can make the dealer hear this noise, will they do anything about it? And even if they replace these adjusters, are they just going to put the same flawed parts back in?

Thanks
 

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I think its hit or miss , if you end up with 1 or 2 weak adjusters or not. Some never have an issue and no noise, mine did it since 200 miles on truck. Its a crap shoot if you replace all of them you could with more noise or fix the problem. I would like to see the aftermarket come out with improved lash adjusters. I did try thicker oil and also lucas synthetic oil stabiliser ,it did'nt help. I use valvoline 5-30 synthetic in summer and 5-20 in winter here in Arizona. Give it 2 min each time you park and see if it improves.
 

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I'm getting more and more frustrated with this problem. The truck has continued to make this noise, not every startup, but in an unpredictable manner. Yesterday I got in my expensive truck in front of a group of 5 friends / acquaintances, fired up the motor, and for about 3 seconds listened to the semi-heavy sounding rattling or slow knock. The engine always seems to make the noise at inopportune times in front of people. I figured it would yesterday, so I even timed shutting my door loudly to help distract the people from this rotten noise. No matter how long I let the truck idle before I shut it off seems to make zero difference. I can't believe people are accepting Ford dealer service people's explanation of "normal." My 21-year old Range Rover with 170k miles starts up smoothly with zero lifter rattle. Years ago, my old 1996 Explorer never, ever made this sound in 140k miles of driving it. And my newer cars never made noise, either...2000 VW Jetta (SOHC 2V design), 2010 VW Jetta (DOHC 4V), 2012 VW GTI (DOHC / VVT / 4V). This is not normal. I should under no circumstances be embarrassed of the way my brand new Ford truck sounds like when it starts up.

I'm going to start by trying to get several videos of it making the noise on different occasions. Then, I'll present these to the dealer as a starting point. I'll ask them to keep the truck for a day, maybe going out and starting it / driving it at different intervals, until it makes the noise for them. Then they need to fix it - if they don't, I will go to Ford. This is both not normal and ridiculous.
 

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Sorry to hear that didn't improve your knocking. I feel your pain. when i first fired my newly built motor for my lightning it made less noise than my 6.2 does. I wish everybody would complain , much like the driveshaft clunk and ford would issue a recall or come out with revised adjusters . Your probally talking some major dollars for labor replacing all the lash adjusters. Thats why it will never happen. Don't know if its because they are engineering these new engines for the thinner oil. My 06 Viper, i used to have, sounded like a sewing machine from the valvetrain at idle , when the motor was hot and it was very hot outside. It called for 0w40 oil. I switched to 15w40 turbo diesel oil and it made a lot less noise in the summer months. Who knows ? let us know if you get anywhere with ford on this.
 

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Will do. I've thought about changing oil viscosity, or even changing the rockers myself (it doesn't look too bad). Shouldn't have to be doing this on a new vehicle, though.
 

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I'm getting more and more frustrated with this problem......
You are right, not normal. This is my 2nd 6.2 Raptor, and I have not had this problem, (yet). Hope you get it fixed! Keep us posted.
 

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Same issue here since day one, originally I thought they under filled the oil only to check it and find it was on the full mark... it's definitely a lifter issue, as soon as oil pressure comes up and the lifters "pump up" the noise goes away... I have right at 3,000 miles on the truck now and i'm very frustrated with this issue. This is not normal, and is not healthy for the valve train one bit, it will tear up the cam lobes, lifters, rockers, and valves... pretty pissed that a vehicle at this price point has issues that it appears Ford is not standing behind...:smiledown:
 

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Came across this thread while searching out for common/known Raptor issues and have read about some 4.6L Cobra owners having similar lash adjuster issues...

Take it Ford is still using "dummy" oil pressure gauges (ie - an open/close switch set at a fixed "bare minimum" PSI to indicate oil pressure is present), correct?



Just out of curiosity, I'm wondering if any Raptor owners have installed an aftermarket oil pressure gauge to get a read-out RE their oil PSI upon engine start-up?

If so, what kind of readings are owners getting at cold/hot start-up? Is cold/hot start oil pressure level an issue in the 6.2L engine?
 

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I unfortunately also started to notice this problem after about 400 miles on my new truck. It only lasts for about 2 to 5 seconds or so but it's there. And of course does it when showing it off to friends and family. Very disappointing and embarrassing.
 

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Try running good oil. My 6.2 did that until i got rid of fords oil and the over the counter crap. Try running oils that are zinc/phospharus fortified.Mine stopped the tap right away. now i only here it when im at the miles needed to change the oil again Which is 3000 miles not 7000 like ford says. shit oil gets changed at 7000 mile intervals. Good oils get changed at 3000. Its the amounts of real ingredients that makes the oils. The faker the materials the longer it "lasts":4-looney:
 

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Been using mobile 1 from day 1 and have intermittent rattles on startup sounds like engine is starving for oil. Purchase an extended warranty from Ford and document your oil changes!
 

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Guys the rattle is from the lash adjusters. They bleed down and depending on the position of the cam, you may have more bled down one day to the other. The lash adjusters are fed by the rocker arms that are on a tube. It takes time for oil pressure to get to the tube, and then the rocker arm and then finally to the hla. There is no durability concern. Just the hydraulics of the system.
 

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I found when I pull in to park if I let the engine idle for 30s or so before turning the engine off seems to cut down on the rattle. JMO


Sent from my iPhone 5s using Tapatalk
 

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rattle

mine does the same.2010 molten orange with 60k.. come to find out there is a heat shield under the drivers door that will rattle and with a lot of miles the clamp rusts throu
 
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