F-150 Raptor Forums banner

1 - 2 of 2 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys I never post on here as I've never had any great reason to share much! So after owning a 2012 salvaged title for 5 years now i can share some information!

First, this truck is the baddest truck ever made! That includes the newer eco boost models just saying. I've been towing 10k pounds all over the country for over a 100k miles now! Dealerships will RIP you off! Be careful who works on your rear differential! The drive shaft seal is held in by a nut that if it's not carefully marked for position the rear diff will fail. Dealerships do not remove tranny plates or diff plates the suck out fluid and replace. Not good because a good mechanic should get eyes on your gears. If you hear a ticking sound when good up coming from your motor it's the canister purge valve. Replace that because if not your gas mileage will go down, gas tank will collapse inwards, random codes will happen, and if to long the charcoal filters and valve can get saturated.

Duratracs are the best tires for ice and mud. This truck is insane 7k ft up on sheets of ice hunting elk. The heater resistor should be replaced and it'll pump out heat well. Located on the passenger side dash window popper thing. Run as high of octane as you can! Four wheel drive actuators are easy to install but be careful with the CV shaft nut. Get one from the dealer with red lock tight but make sure to heat it up with a torch so it threads on real nice. If not you could break off the threaded nipple of the CV shaft and you'll be buying a new shaft! 1 dollar vs 600.
Auxiliary switches are really really easy to hook up! Directions all over online.
Ok let's get dirty now! The oil filter screws onto a oil cooler and there is a nut/threaded bolt in the center of it that removes the cooling sparatus! Super easy and will come in handy when you get a leak in your lower radiator hose, which in my case was pin holed by a dealer mechanic! This is important because without a special clamp tool the lower hose is difficult to access up in the block and removing the oil cooler really helps. I just changed my oil at the time.
Fill coolant at the radiator not the expansion reservoir.
If you have tranny service always check the bolt on the passenger side as the mechanics like to leave that one lose spitting fluid all over your OBDii sensor and cat. Also the trannies need exact amounts of fluid or it'll trigger codes if it's over or under filled! Fuse 27 is a fuel pump control line and it melts out and shorts. I replaced all the fuses with higher end longer fuses to keep the plastic from the connection and wow I found 3 other melted fuses! Didn't even know!
If you have a 1st gen and it's got some miles on it I recommend switching out all of your mini fuses (not the box ones), replace the canister purge valve! It'll cost 60 bucks or so and make sure you get the higher end fuses not the cheap halfys Ford uses. And if you have a dealer do work on it for you double check the work within a month and take pictures and videos as they will manipulate everyone into sweeping their incompetence under the rug!
Replacing the moonroof track is a bizniotch.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
1,587 Posts
Agree on the sunroof/moonroof. Had to recently replace mine. Hardly ever opened the damn thing and one weekend decided to move it back and the plastic track components broke. That is definitely a weak spot on the Raptor. And, did the Fuze 27 mod......before I got stranded.
 
1 - 2 of 2 Posts
Top