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Discussion Starter #1
Does anyone know the proceedure for flooded injectors on a 2014 Raptor:

1. I did the reset proceedure so it will crank and that is how I know I fixed the fuel pump fuse burn out and FPDM now instead of just cranking and turning over it starts again but does not stay on long and I think my injectors are flooded from previous weeks before I found out on here that I needed to relocate my fuse and change out the FPDM.

I know I can give it a tune up or clean up the plugs in which a tune up is key on our raptor as its been sitting for 9 months in the yard and who knows what the previous owner did with it before their stationary wreck...

Known history:
It had one missing coil on the 3rd to the back left side, one missing coil bolt and the hole was packed with sand and dirt. and it took a couple of days after we received the truck and before we ever started it to shovel as much dirt out as we could with a small flathead followed by using a shop vac. and then we sprayed in liquid wrench and sucked the rest completely out the wet way as it was packed hard and did not want any dirt or rocks in our engine down the road when we go change out the spark plugs, new coil is on that missing one and just waiting for the bolt to come in. we also swapped out the wiring harness for the sensor since someone broke off the red tab that holds it. and all codes went away for this.
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I went underneath the truck and made sure no fuel lines were cut, I made sure the sensor wires etc were all in working condition and not cut and also sprayed electrical cleaner in the plugs to the fuel tank.
We do not have a truck box yet and therefore no gas cap and I bought a $3 cap for steering fluid and placed it on top of where the hose goes for the fuel and a nitrele rubber glove over the small valve for both to keep the rain and dirt out.

I do not know whether or not the trucks come with a factory kill switch or not of whether you need the truck box or if the gas cap has a sensor but I get a code that says the gas cap is missing to put it back before starting.
I also get a passive starting code. Ill go look it up and update the threads with codes here. but from what I read so far is that any trucks with factory installed remote starting to the starter needs to be cleared out before starting as its a factory kill switch, I do not know if this could be the case and not the injectors but will fix this as well. I have a dealership quick remote start button coming to me pre programmed to my vin and in my tool it says I cant learn it to the truck until all codes are cleared and the antenna is hooked back up.
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Lastly I read somewhere that the fuel pump talks to the RCM and then the rest of the truck, and I found out when I removed it to ship it off to myairbags.com to get wiped and reset and when I temp put it back the code went away and now I get the code that my rcm crash data is full storage my tool is charging but ill get that code too. anyways I am going ahead and removing it again under the console and sending it out to be wiped and reset.
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The pros to my Raptor is everything is solid on the Power House: no leaks, cracks etc.
Small cons: is most of the sensors etc. were removed and not cut while the abs system and couple other things were straight out cut. lastly I have a part tube part wire cable on the drivers side underneath that is between the drivers doors to the drivers crew cab to almost to the rear wheel and the cable side was cut and I have no idea what its supposed to be for as its nowhere near the transfer case that is in the middle of the truck.
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Last:
I am getting in a complete and running 2013 Raptor SVT that has a dismantle certificate to it as it was rolled over in a crash and most of the body and all the undercarriage is twisted and toast with the frame. but besides the fender, truck box and the interior, instrument cluster and suspension that is all I want it for, the other reason to have it is to trace down on that truck to see what I am missing in sensors or what the cut parts are supposed to be or look like, - Do you guys know if there are any differences with a 2013 Raptor to a 2014 Raptor that I need to know thanks.

I also heard a debate between Gen 1 Raptor owners one side says you need an instrument cluster installed in order for the truck to start and the other side says you do not need one installed in order for it to start, What do you guys say Thanks.

Note to the Forum owner and the Mods:
I have been linking your forum in my youtube videos along with giving you guys shout outs for your help in my build, Please let me know if this is okay or if you would like me to stop thank you.

Savvy Turtle.
 

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What makes you think its flooded injectors? If it is, time may be your best fix - it will eventually evaporate. I never touch the pedal when cranking, but have been told that if the injectors are flooded, procedure is to push the gas pedal to the floor and hold it there until it cranks. How many miles before setting for 9 months? It may need new plugs anyway.

Nope, not aware of any Raptors that come with a factory installed kill switch. Have heard of some folks rigging one of their AUX switches to act as a kill switch, which seems kinda an interesting idea.

Lot of work there with that project !
 

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Discussion Starter #3
What makes you think its flooded injectors? If it is, time may be your best fix - it will eventually evaporate. I never touch the pedal when cranking, but have been told that if the injectors are flooded, procedure is to push the gas pedal to the floor and hold it there until it cranks. How many miles before setting for 9 months? It may need new plugs anyway.

Nope, not aware of any Raptors that come with a factory installed kill switch. Have heard of some folks rigging one of their AUX switches to act as a kill switch, which seems kinda an interesting idea.

Lot of work there with that project !
Thank you, Yes I did the pedal test and used the ford test proceedure and it cleared it, I checked all of the plugs and they are fine, checked the injectors those are fine, fuel lines etc. so then I checked the throttle body and sure enough the door is stuck and from reading it if the door is stuck shut or halfway or even open youll have the same outcomes for all except being wide open. I replaced the throttle body and it cranks right up and stays running now with no issues. guess it just needed some air.

Mine did come with a factory kill switch on my luxury or limited edition package I found the dealer part code for it and confirmed it with the little box inside. I will grab the dealer docs and the autel codes and post it here in the near future just remind me. as to the aftermarket way all that would be great as long as they told the new owner what they done to their Raptor as our Raptor has wires everywhere cut and not its all good though!

Thank you very much will be a rewarding project just patiently waiting to get to the upgrades once we put it back together...

As to the miles it has 62,073 miles before being stripped for insurance fraud!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
What makes you think its flooded injectors? If it is, time may be your best fix - it will eventually evaporate. I never touch the pedal when cranking, but have been told that if the injectors are flooded, procedure is to push the gas pedal to the floor and hold it there until it cranks. How many miles before setting for 9 months? It may need new plugs anyway.

Nope, not aware of any Raptors that come with a factory installed kill switch. Have heard of some folks rigging one of their AUX switches to act as a kill switch, which seems kinda an interesting idea.

Lot of work there with that project !
I do not know if all F150's or all Raptors but I do know that my Raptor is equipped with the PATS system and is why my engine would crank and then shut off after 20 seconds. in my case I also had an issue with the FPDM, The burnt out fuse #27 and my Throttle Body door was stuck to shut. Today I just finished with the relearn proceedure for PATS on my vehicle and also programmed 2 Ford OEM Transponders and 2 Ford OEM Keys with Remote start, and now it fires right up without shutting down. I am told by the manuals, the relearn proceedures and also hear online in forums and youtube and such that you can see the PATS indicator light on your instrument cluster and tell the difference when you use an aftermarket key and when you use a ford factory key or transponder. There is also a switch installed underneath the dashboard drivers side that you can use to manually disable the PATS and allow the aftermarket cut keys to bypass the PATS system and crank it with no problems. I tested it out it worked but then activated the switch again.

Using an Autel Maxicom MK808TS I first granted access to my security of the vehicle and then got into my PATS system and did a relearn Parameter from there I received access to my key cut code, my factory keyless entry code i.e. my outside door panel code. from there I checked my two aftermarket key fobs and relearned them with adding everything that the factory keys are supposed to have and they are now confirmed programmed like the dealership and any dealership or locksmith and mechanics and DIY'ers can do themselves. but in my case it still would not stay running and the aftermarket keys were still being rejected as it was still looking for the transponder for the vehicle. So I went through the proceedure with the already programmed 1 aftermarket key to shake hands with the PATS system and from there I swapped out keys in the ignition with the newly cut oem transponder key and switched it to on and had the PATS system relearn it along with shake hands. I did this to two transponder keys and two Ford keys with remote start. then I confirmed that all 4 keys worked and cranked the vehicle without shutting down. and then used one transponder in the ignition to relearn the 2 aftermarket fob keys to also transpond and crank by themselves. all is good now however neither the aftermarket fobs or the dealer fobs will remote start and no relearn proceedure was performed because my truck is missing the antenna and the orange antenna wire is cut in half by crimpers or something in that nature when it was stripped and in order to program and relearn remote start systems to include installs you need a working antenna. in which I just ordered one.

Sorry for this long explainer along with the hopping around. Hope this helps...
 
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