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Should I worry?

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  • Easy fix

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Discussion Starter #1
I just purchased a beautiful 2010 raptor with under 50k miles... I payed a bit of a premium to purchase from a reputable shop. I’m worried the car has too much undercarriage rust and for some reason I didn’t see this well during the day. I might still have an opportunity to return it. Based on the photos, should I be concerned or is this mostly cosmetic and could it be repaired? The interior, exterior, wheels, and general ride of the vehicle is great and it has less than 50k miles. I’m halfway between where I purchased the car and my final destination...20 total hour drive.

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Its not ideal but not terrible. Get in there and start sanding away at what you can. Clean it and spray it with some good rust prevention paint. Best you can do. If you stop it now you got alot of time to fix it or sell it.
 

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Also have a 2010 that just turned 52,000 miles. Still looks near as good as new. That rust could be from being driven in saltwater. All that flaking would worry me. Who wants to pay a premium for a truck and then have to scrape and sand rusted areas? I'd either return it, or better yet, get seller to pay to have the rust taken care of to your satisfaction.
 

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The areas that you showed us are not real bad, so fixable. You don't indicate what region you or the truck is in. Looks like a coastal area or salted road area and/or both. Point it out to the seller and see if they will do something about it, or grease your palm with some compensation to do something with it. It needs to be stopped from continuing. The steering and sunspension parts you show are fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Update: I can't return the vehicle—purchased as-is. I did get an extended warranty on it... the dealer paid 1k of it as compensation (1/3 total cost). The warranty is "Bumper to bumper" and covers a pretty decent amount, including suspension. We'll see what they actually cover when things start to fail... The vehicle did come with new tires, and the dealer paid for about 1k in additional repairs for HVAC issues, third tail light, etc.

Rust: I take it to get the undercarriage power washed and re-coated. Is a powerwash enough or should I ask them to get in there and sand it down...It's currently quoted at approx 550 bucks. I can see them trying to double it if I have them sand it down. They will use asphalt-based paint designed for rust prevention. I also plan to use rust-oleum on the cast-iron knuckles and plan to replace the shocks in a few months. Anything else I should try to do? Besides that... the car drives great... and sounds amazing.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Second update. Took it to a shop and they told me they won’t even work on it. Sent me back. Think they were being dramatic?
 

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Second update. Took it to a shop and they told me they won’t even work on it. Sent me back. Think they were being dramatic?
Unfortunately I don’t think they were. The fact that the dealer kicked in 1/3 of the cost of the extended warranty isn’t that great as the warranty probably cost them under $1,000. Personally, and I don’t mean to rain on your parade, I’d take my lumps and sell it. It looks pretty rough underneath and will only get worse with time.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
best deal I got so far is 25k for a 50k mile truck with no accidents. I lose a significant amount of this. A trade in helps a bit. Nothing here is ideal. A rust company told me the frame itself is ok but the rust will start killing the aesthetic of the vehicle in 4 or 5 years. 1k to sand everything down and repaint the entire bottom. The rust also makes every repair more expensive when nuts and bolts have welded together with rust. Shocks are shot but covered by warranty. Problem is that when the go replace the shocks, parts will brake because of rust damage.
I paid 35. On paper it made sense. 48k miles 2010 6.2L and the photos looked incredible (attached). Wish they posted photos of the bad stuff also. one option is to fix it up and drive it like I stole it for 3 years. Sell it at a less and hopefully I’ll be in a better economic position then.
 

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best deal I got so far is 25k for a 50k mile truck with no accidents. I lose a significant amount of this. A trade in helps a bit. Nothing here is ideal. A rust company told me the frame itself is ok but the rust will start killing the aesthetic of the vehicle in 4 or 5 years. 1k to sand everything down and repaint the entire bottom. The rust also makes every repair more expensive when nuts and bolts have welded together with rust. Shocks are shot but covered by warranty. Problem is that when the go replace the shocks, parts will brake because of rust damage.
I paid 35. On paper it made sense. 48k miles 2010 6.2L and the photos looked incredible (attached). Wish they posted photos of the bad stuff also. one option is to fix it up and drive it like I stole it for 3 years. Sell it at a less and hopefully I’ll be in a better economic position then.
You will be fine with it. Just have it all taken care of like the company suggested and stay on it if new areas show up.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
final update - lots of rust came off with a brush and a pressure washer. Car didn't look as bad once we cleaned it up. Had Ziebart put a nice coating on and I feel pretty good about the vehicle. Structure is not compromised. I get the shocks and a few other components in a few weeks and we're golden! Thanks for walking me through the panic. Glad I kept the car.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Final-final update: Better than new!
1. 4 new shocks from Texas Shocks Works - front shocks at mid perch;
2. Progressive Geiser Springs;
3. Deaver +3 SD leaf Springs;
4. Replaced upper control arms.

New rear shocks and Deaver
29031


New Front Shocks, Springs, and upper control arm
29032

Old and new side by side rear shocks
29033



Old front shock
29034

Alex from TSW working his magic.
29035
 

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Thanks for sharing all the detailed pics. Good luck with the rust... you got ur work cut out for you.
 
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