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Discussion Starter #21
No worries sir, just trying to pay things forward. your doing a great job on that gen1.
I appreciate that thank you, I will do the same where I can in the near future with anyone who needs it, Thank you its like being an operator in the military just seems a lot simpler, the hardest part is waiting on parts, the rain and flooding that wont let up and running down all the small stuff such as screws, bolts and such,
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Will upload pics tomorrow on my progress, been working on several areas:
1. I had help with the front end under carriage with releasing the suspension and stablizer bar that all is unhooked and looks like a worm bucket of unhooked rusted f150 non Raptor parts and then put the battery back in the truck kinda hard to keep the battery under the hood right now due to the scrapped right upper rail. once connected I put the key in and floored the brake and switched gears to nuetral which finally allowed me to both use the brake pedal and also switch gears as previously the computer would not allow me to do it because the truck has been stuck in 4x4 mode, off road mode and hill descent mode. once I got everything on the dash hooked up last week I was able to program the truck to factory specs and do flash upgrades which reset all of that and I only had hill descent and off road mode on...

Even remotely I was not able to bypass or turn off hill descent or off road modes, So I had help with loosening up the suspension and stabilizer bar and then help with turning the steering wheel where the red stripe is on top and then releasing the brake pedal and switching gears back to park. from there I hooked up my digital maintainer to the battery and ran the remote proceedure with my Autel and I was finally able to bypass hill descent and off road mode and turn it off. however the same problem I had with 4x4 mode is with these two as once I am finished doing what I want to do remotely the bypass shuts off and reverts back to on position for both the hill descent and off road mode.

But I am at peace knowing that I knocked one of the two birds out and I know that once I get the aux upfitter switch and turn both modes on and then hook it up and turn the key and press both buttons off that they will stay off like the 4x4 switches did from L to H or H to L forgot which one it was in but it was stuck in the one you are not supposed to do daily driving in. its been a week since I hooked up the dash switches and I already forget lol...

2. I had some help with the lower right side sub frame bumper rail with holding it and removing it once I grinded it off., I tried out some auto dismantling blades for my sawzall that firemen use and they cut like butter better than any lenox or dewalt blades ever did for metal I was impressed. I used one to cut 6" away from the welds and was able to cut most of the sub frame rail off. which was a blessing since it was hard to grind in places where I could not move the ac or trans hard pipes. I then cut and grinded the 6" down to 1" and put Por15 on the last 1" and around the frame opening in case it starts to rain again as lately these past two months its been nothing but rain and flooding and spot rust messes up clean welds and why sand it down its a lot better to lightly sand the Por15 before welding.

I did it this way because whomever welded the beads for the sub frame bumper did a really poor job and you have globs everywhere. and I knew the best way to know that I am not grinding into the actual frame would be to look inside the hole.

So tomorrow God willing providing that He allows the rain to stay away for another day I will take my torch with one of my yellow canisters and heat up the end of the frame on the front and take my metal working chisel, hammers, picks, and my grinder and first break away the final 1" of the sub frame leftover metal and once out I will lightly grind the outside of the frame which will take about an hour and half as those weld globs are big and bad job. after that I will switch grinding discs and grind sand the outside all the way around, and then do the inside where the 1" leftover metal was. depending on the time of day and providing the weather is still nice with the rain hiding I will have my new friend come hold the sub frame bumper piece and line it up and I will take a 2 foot 2x4 piece and place it on the front and tap it in with my metal working hammer into place until I feel that 1" all the way around is inside the frame and is snug. from there while he holds it I will place two 25lbs welding helpers to the bottom of the frame to hold it in place and have him let go.

Then its all about taking your time, leveling, measuring etc. not just the two bumper pieces of the sub frame but also lining it up for your lower radiator bracket. there is a saying somewhere measure twice cut once or something like that...

Once I am ready for my first go I will have my friend hold the sub frame bumper and close his eyes and I will spot weld four areas and tack them into place.
I will then make sure the lower radiator bracket is lined up perfectly or the best its supposed to be and if so then I will remove it and proceed to weld the sub frame bumper piece.

Also note that the left side upper rail welds on the lower part that fits into the lower radiator bracket will not be welded into the lower radiator bracket and will just sit inside the new one until a later date. as the sub frame bumper pieces are important and are like a foundation for a concrete slab of a home. and takes care of 50% of your hard work for you now you can frame a home and still be lopsided but it would be the framers fault not the leveled concrete,

Once the lower tie bar radiator bracket is snug in place and leveled on both sides the insulators and bolts on each side will go in connecting and securing each one of the sub frame bumper rails into place.

The reason why you do not weld and secure the left drivers side upper rail into place is because from this point everything else needs to line up perfectly and spot weld, test fitted etc. and all line up perfectly as the rest after the lower tie radiator bar are critical pieces for your front end.

In closing, I will place most of my focus on the right side upper rail and fitting, securing, welding and riveting to specs., then let the bottom sit on the lower tie bar like the left side will be. then most likely will be drained and need a couple days off to rest my spine and when I continue will proceed to fit the Radiator bracket, and other small pieces we all have on our front ends of our Raptors and once everything lines up into place I will mark the lower tie bar with a silver sharpie and unbolt everything and have my helper take it off. and then we will proceed to line up the bottom and tack weld each side and then weld it.
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Note that if you ever need to replace your lower tie bar, If you look at your current tie bar the two fins of metal that comes up on each side that are welded on your upper rails lower sections know that the fins do not come welded to your lower bar and they come as separate pieces and your lower bar has several notches on the bottom for you to slide your fins over and once you line it up with your marking you are good to weld. also note that all Ford OEM parts like this comes powder coated and you will need to lightly grind sand the powder coated area that lines up with your test fittings as it will be a lot better weld on metal to metal. and say after a couple minutes of your finished product of your welds I would highly suggest using a pint of Por15 on it you will only need 1 quarter of the pint. and depending on your Raptor choose the color to match your sub frame, upper rails etc. for me I am using semi gloss black it matches my powder coat but I painted over all of my powder coat to rust proof it.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
i have front and rear lights from my gen 1 along with the oem SVT front and rear floor mats all in great condition, you just pay shipping. I am located in BHC AZ 86442-4414.
send me your paypal I was thinking I use the front lights for mock ups being that I am rebuilding the front end. also have not checked up in the diagrams but does your Raptor have headlight mounts or do they just float anyways thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #24

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Discussion Starter #25
JMRRebuilders hey brother we are about to do the same job on our 2013 lariat. Like you we have found absolutely nothing that clarifies this job. This is the only thing I have found and have been searching everywhere. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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Savvy Turtle
Thx, so for this I heard back from Ford Corporate Collision dept. as what you have shown is awesome and if it was just a 2009-2014 F150 I'd be done with the rail already but apparently its not the same setup on a 2014 Raptor I cannot speak for the 2009-2010-2011-2012 or 2013 Raptors as I dont know but I do know for a fact the 2014 Raptors are done differently then the F150's they made it where we cant get to the rails unless we take out the firewall. I just stripped everything down from the video I shared above and removed the dash no problems except I will add that dash removal video above still works on 2014 Raptors but there are 17 additional bolt points you have to remove in order to get the dash out. once out you dont have access to the rail apron assembly as it is inside the firewall.

After talking directly with Ford Corporate I told them I want their solution or their entire 2014 Raptor truck assembly blueprint as you state that all of your Ford collision parts come with a lifetime warranty if installed correctly and not altered, you also state that you dont want it sectioned even though its standard practice in body shops etc because you dont supply the assembly solution. I understand this was a bad engineering design flaw I wont tell anyone heck Ill praise Ford in my videos just give me the blueprints and a solution.

So for me its like this the 2014 Raptor which I now intimately know every part on it as I took it apart like a hotwheels truck., we will call X company Frog since I promised I would not mention them if they gave me a certified solution that wont affect my value or the intergrity.

Frog said I had two options option 1. take off the firewall, install the rail apron, put the firewall back on. put the dash back etc. or option 2. in which frog privately certified the bodyshops to do in which they dont talk about is sectioning now publicly frog says no to sectioning but privately its fine as long as you do it to standard. and the funny thing is 99% of fender rail replacements from damages are caused by tap fender benders or hitting a pole our Wrecked raptor is not really wrecked it was parked lol! but a couple inches as you know will throw everything off alignment.

So while I cannot publicly share or show the complete assembly blueprints or instructions from Frog with certification along with the supplies list I will however on the side of my video I am currently shooting will not mention frog period and just talk about step by step the best way to get to it and what you can use.

In short: depending on where your apron rail is getting sectioned if you dont go past the authorized sectioning limited area as measured and marked then mock up a oem assembly rail apron part and cut it to pick up where the other one left off, tack weld it and do all of your measurements on your front end make sure everything lines up etc. then weld the section from the outside, now if you did it right where you cut you still should have a factory plate on the inside but if you dont you will need to go buy the same thickness sheet metal and make sure it overlaps 6 inches past each side of the rail from their seams. then weld the plate, note that if you do this you will need to mock up and drill all your bolt and wire holes on the inside along with reinstalling the hood.
a mig welder is fine you can tig it if you want but you have better access with a mig. whichever preference you choose gas or electric does not matter. and you want 0.35 wire in my case i use fluxcore shielded wire as I used eletric. Hope this helps its a pain in the ass and I am glad they redesigned the fender aprons to the outside.
 
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